How Much Silverware do you need?
Like most things, there is no simple answer. The amount and type of silverware (flatware) you will require are completely dependent upon the formality of the occasion. So before I get into the type and quantity of silverware you’ll be needing, lets’ first look at the settings you are likely to choose from.
Since most of the Holiday dinners my wife and I host tend to have the similar menus, I had to do a little research to get the finer points of where everything goes, and which way the knife should face (fyi - the blade of the knife should always face the plate). With that in mind, shown below are the basic layouts that I’ll be referring to. For those of you who are interested in more detailed explanations about the order of service, the variations in settings, and what you should or should not eat with your fingers, visit Emily Post’s Table Setting Guide, Replacements Ltd, Did You Know, or Wikipedia.
Basic
The basic setting requires the fewest pieces of flatware and dinnerware per setting. This is naturally the most common type and is used by most chain to mid-price restaurants. A common type of this setting is shown below.
A Basic Table Setting
An even simpler version of this setting has no salad plate with the bread knife and butter dish optional. Other variations might include placing the napkin where the salad plate is placing the salad plate on top of the dinner plate, with the napkin on top of that.
Informal (Table Service)
Whether being referred to as an informal service (as I am) or formal dinner service, the distinguishing feature of this setting is that the serving dishes are placed on the table - picture Thanksgiving with the Turkey on a platter, surrounded by bowls of stuffing and cranberry sauce, etc, that are passed around the table.
An Informal Table Setting
The setting above is set for a menu consisting of a soup course, salad or first course, an entree, and dessert. Here most variations will occur with the type of glasses used. Depending upon the meal, these can be any combination of wine glasses, water goblet, and coffee cup & saucer.
Formal (Kitchen Service)
This is the most formal type of service, where all of the food (and drink) is served from the kitchen (similar to a restaurant).
The Formal Setting
Although very similar to the Informal setting, here the Service Plate (a) or Charger (Thank you Emily Post) serves as an under plate on top of which all courses are placed, until it is swapped for the entree. The only other additions are the Fish knife (g), oyster/fish fork (j), a sherry glass (le), and possibly a champagne flute (not shown).
Let’s get to the Silverware
As you can see (and probably already knew) as the ‘formality’ of the setting increases, so does the amount of dinnerware and silverware. So when purchasing flatware the most obvious question that you need to answer is “what type of service am I most likely to have?”. For the vast majority, I am guessing it will be the informal service, which will typically occur on the Holidays. So in order to keep from having to run the dishwasher between dinner and dessert (or using plastic utensils) keep the following in mind:
Silverware is typically sold in service sets of 5 pcs each. A service set includes a knife, two forks (salad and dinner), a soup spoon and a teaspoon. Flatware sets that are not sold in multiples of ‘5′ generally come in one of two variations, with serving pieces or extra teaspoons or salad/dessert forks. I always like having more forks (especially for dessert). This is probably due to the fact we always have plenty of desserts and not many people in my family drink coffee (so I always have more than enough spoons). So as a first estimate, you’ll need to know roughly how many people will be dropping by (on average). If you have the financial resources to buy the finest silver for all your guests, good for you. More realistically, a quality service for 8 - 12 should be fine, with a similarly styled, less expensive set for younger adults and children. Since my wife and I both come from small families our service for 16 does fine (or at least it did until both my nieces got a boyfriends).
Most important to remember is that if the set your considering does not come with service pieces, make sure they can be purchased separately. Most (if not all) manufacturers will sell service sets which typically include a serving spoon, slotteed spoon, serving fork, butter knife, and sugar spoon. In most cases it will be a good idea to get the additional service set even if a few are included with your basic set. because you’ll almost always have more side dishes than serving utensils. Since everyone tends to like different things, and we try to have something for everyone, we almost always have as many side dishes as we do serving utensils. At our last Christmas dinner we used 2 serving forks, 3 serving spoons, 3 slotted spoons, a mini ladle and a spatula (for the Lasagna).
To summarize, know your service:
- What type of meal (basic, informal or formal) will it be ?
- How many people will you be serving ?
- Adults only or adults & children ?
- How many courses &/or sides will need to be served ?
- Special considerations (lots of coffee drinkers, seafood courses, etc) that will require specific utensils ?
The best part is that it doesn’t all have to be done at once. However, if you’re putting together your Wedding Registry, ask for it all, and whatever (if anything) you don’t receive, you can always pick it up later, just don’t forget extra serving utensils, it’ll spare you from having to use plastic (you can thank me later).
Bookmark on Delicious * 
* * 
Chef’s knife vs Santoku (Is Bigger really better?)
The Chef’s Knife
The chef’s knife, is the most versatile, and widely used knife for professional and home cooks alike. This utility is due to the fact that it is designed to do many things well, in stead of excelling at one particuular task.
The Chef’s Knife started as a butcher’s knife (originally designed to disjoint and cut large cuts fo beef) and has evolved into a multi purpose knife for slicing, dicing, chopping, mincing, and still able to disjoint large cuts of beef. The knife’s utility results from both its shape (widest at the heel and tapering to a thinner tip) and the weight of its blade.
The modern chef’s knife can range from 6 - 14 inches in length (8 inches being the most common) and 1 ½ inches in width (at the heel). There are two basic blade shapes, the more common German (shown above)featuring a pronounced curve from heel to tip which allows the blade to be rocked up and down while chopping. The classic French blade is more triangular, with less curve towards the tip and a longer straight section of the blade, designed to slice the food while being pulled toward the user. Both blade styles provide the same amount of versatility so your own personal preference will determine which is right for you.
A typical chef’s knife has an edge profile angle of between 20-22 degrees, and an HRC hardness ranging from 37 - 58. The relatively thick profile allows the blade to be sharpened to different edges along its length. The heavy heel is given a strong, thick edge for the heavy-duty tasks of disjointing beef. The mid-section (belly) of the blade keeps its moderately sharp edge of 20 - 22 degrees for general cutting, chopping and slicing. Finally, the tip can be ground to a very fine bevel making it perfect for precision tasks such as mincing.
The Santoku
Photo Courtesy of Bryan Nikaido
The Santoku (which loosely translates to “three good things” or “three uses”), is also a general-purpose utility knife, originating in Japan. The blade itself is typically 5 - 8 inches long with a flat edge and a sheepsfoot blade which curves in an angle approaching 60 degrees at the point. The blade and handle of the Santoku are carefully balanced to match the width/weight of the blade with the blade tang and handle. The Santoku’s sharp, tough blade makes the knife ideal for cutting fish, vegetables, and boneless or lightly-boned meats such as chicken.
The Santoku is a Japanese modification of the French type of Chef’s knife, specifically designed for use in preparing Japanese cuisine. It is typically shorter than most chef’s knives, with a harder blade sharpened using traditional Japanese edge geometry. The thinner flat-ground blade has an edge angle of 15-18 degree and is made of a harder tempered steel (often 58 - 62 HRC or higher). This design makes the knife ideal for precision cutting and thin slicing. The shorter blade and hardened, thin-profile edge of the Santoku mean that it is not designed to perform the same heavy duty tasks (disjointing bones) as the Chef’s knife since these tasks could damage the cutting edge.
Focusing on strength and sharpness, other Japanese modifications include piercings through the body of the blade (the air pockets reduce friction for a smoother cut) and hand-hammered blades (which are said to improve strength while presenting a more rustic appearance). Some of the best Santoku blades employ laminated steels (known as San Mai ) including the pattern known as Suminagashi. Suminagashi refers to the blade’s multi-layer steel alloys that resemble the traditional Japanese art of suminagashi, floating swirls of ink over paper. The better Japanese santoku knives also employ forged laminated stainless steel cladding to improve strength and rust resistance while maintaining a hard edge. Knives with these expensive laminated blades are generally considered to be the ultimate expression of quality in a genuine Japanese santoku.
As a result of its smaller size and lighter weight, the santoku is especially popular among people with smaller hands.
- Which to buy?
BEWARE: There are many copies of santoku-type knives being manufactured outside of Japan that have substantially different edge designs, different balance, and softer steels. These changes make the knife more similar to a classic Chef’s Knife since a thicker blade is required to obtain the same cutting edge profile as those used in the original Japanese santoku. To compensate for these differences, some non-Japanese santoku variations (made of a single alloy) include scalloped recesses (known as kullens), hollowed-out of the side of the blade - similar to those found in meat-carving knives. These scallops create small air pockets between the blade and the material being sliced in an attempt to reduce cutting friction.
Genuine Japanese santoku blades do not employ such features, but instead rely on inherent quality of steel and edge geometry in order to make clean cuts.
So which is better?
So, after all this explaination, which is the better knife? Although this may sound like the easy way out, the answer is - it depends on your personal preference, and the tasks you expect to be performing. Knife selection is completely subjective and depends entirely upon what’s most important to you. Some questions to ask will be:
- Does the knife fit comfortably in your hand?
- Is it too heavy for you to work with for long periods of time?
- What tasks will you be using the knife for?
- What is the blade made from (1 piece forged, laminated, ceramic)?
- Does the knife have a full tang?
- Do I really need just one knife?
Some chef’s prefer one knife over the other, while others use both. Like I said, the choice is yours, and that’s much better than having no choice at all.
Bookmark on Delicious * * *
Knife Essentials - Washing & Storing
Being a self taught cook. you sometimes have to learn things the hard way. Like the time I learned that the tip of a paring knife is not the best thing to use when trying to pry apart frozen hamburgers (what can I say, I was young). Anyway, over the years, there are some things that you hear (and read) over and over so you get a pretty good feeling that they must be right, Today I’m going to share two of the most essential knife care tips - proper washing and storage.
Washing your Knife
Regardless of what manufacturer your knife is from (JA Henkels, Wusthof, Victorinox, etc), the proper washing technique is the same - hand wash with warm water using a minimal amount of detergent, rinse thoroughly and dry immediately. There are several reasons for this.
Knives must be washed immediately after every use to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria (the same is true for cutting boards, but I’ll discuss that in another post). NEVER put your knives in a dishwasher. Inside the dishwasher your knives can bang against the wire racks, other flatware. , dishes, pots and pans resulting in a nicked blade. Also, if not removed immediately from the dishwasher, the long exposure to steam can cause your knife to stain (even if it’s made from stainless steel). Dishwashers are especially harmful to knives with wooden handles. Not only is the strength of the wood is reduced, but it’s natural lustre and beauty are greatly diminished.
The same washing technique is recommended for ceramic knives such as Kyocera.
It is also worth noting that all knives (regardless of material of construction) should be washedprior to their first use. This helps to remove any remaining oils which may be left behind as a result of the manufacture and sharpening processes.
Knives with wooden handles also require a little extra care. The wood should be completely dried after each use. Also, an occasional wipe with mineral oil will help to help maintain the wood’s moisture resistance, and natural finish.
Storing your Knife
Now that your knife has been properly cleaned, where should you store it?
Do NOT throw (toss, drop, place, lay, etc) it into a drawer with all your other cutlery and/or flatware. The constant banging and scraping against all the other metal in the drawer is a guaranteed way to dull and damage your knife. There are several simple ways to properly store your knives:
Knife blocks come in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes, storing the knives either horizontally or vertically. If vertical, it is necessary to insert your knife with the blade up, so it is not dulled as it rubs against the hardwood. Best for counter top storage.
- Wooden in-drawer knife tray
The wooden knife drawer is similar to a Knife Block, except that it is designed to fit into a drawer. Depending on the size/style of the knife tray, it may not be possible to store the knives with the blade up. For those who prefer to keep their knives out of sight.
- Magnetic rack (not an option for ceramic knives)
Extra strong magnets provide a safe alternative method of storage. All knives are easily visible and no counter space is lost since the magnetic bar is mounted directly to the wall. Excellent option for those with limited counter space.
- Cook’s case
This is the preferred storage method for professional chefs. The actual ‘case’ can be anything from a soft polyester/PVC roll to an aluminum frame, foam insert briefcase.
Regardless of how you decide to store your knives, the important thing to remember is that with proper care (and minimal effort), your knives can last for a very long time.
Bookmark on Delicious * * *
How much Silver is in my Silverware?
Actually, the answer depends on what type of Silverware you have.
Today, the term ‘silverware‘ is very generic, and refers to any of a number of household implements, such as: flatware, cutlery, dishes, candlesticks, and even sports trophies. But that wasn’t always the case.
The widespread popularity of silverware really took hold in Victorian England, starting around 1840, and peaked from 1870 - 1920. Victorian etiquette dictated that food should no longer be touched with ones fingers. As a result, in both America and Europe the use of sterling silver flatware became the standard for proper etiquette. The growth in silverware’s popularity was increased by the growing middle class who were eager to display their new wealth. The growth in the middle class’s amount of disposable income, and their desire to display that wealth (to further enhance their social status) led to the creation of utensils to fulfill every imaginable use. During this time period, dinner also evolved from 3 simple courses to 10 (or more) course events. A typical dining service included the bouillon spoon, gumbo soup spoon, salad fork, butter spreader, fruit knife, cheese knife, shrimp or cocktail fork, dinner fork, dinner knife, place fork, place knife, teaspoon, pastry fork, coffee spoon, demitasse spoon, and iced tea spoon.
So, back to our question - how much silver is really in silverware?
Silverware, as the name implies, was historically made from (obviously) silver. However, being a very soft and malleable metal, it was necessary to blend the silver with another metal to enhance its strength. This gave rise to the alloy called Sterling Silver, which has long been recognised as the ‘silver‘ standard. Sterling Silver contains (by law) 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% of other metals - typically copper. More recently, other metals (such as zinc and platinum) have been used to enhance specific properties, such as resistance to tarnish, but none have been able to replace copper as the standard. So, if you’re fortunate enough to have inherited, purchased (or possibly even collect) sterling silver, it contains at least 92.5% pure silver (and as the price of silver goes up, so does the value of your flatware).
That’s great news for those who own sterling silver, but what about silverplate?
For silverplate, the answer is not as straight forward. It actually depends on when the cutlery was made since the plating process changed. As the process changed so did the thickness and purity of the silver.
Silverplate cutlery is made from a base metal (usually copper, nickle, or zinc) which is coated with a layer of silver. The original process was discovered in 1743 by Thomas Boulsover of the Sheffield Cutlers Company (thank you Wikipedia) when he accidentally overheated the handle for a decorative knife he was trying to repair. The silver and copper had melted and fused together into a composite, the two layers behaving as one. This technique was later refined around 1770 when the ‘double sandwich’ process was developed. Here a copper core is ’sandwiched’ between two layers of silver, then heated and formed. This was especially useful for items such as cups and bowls that had a visible interior.
The Sheffield plating process continued until about 1840 when it was replaced by the highly efficient electroplating process. Electroplating is a by which a very thin layer (typically 35 microns) of one metal (at the anode) is deposited (or plated) onto another conductive, usually metal, material (at the cathode) as an electrical current passes through them (the metal ions are transferred via an electrolyte solution which permits the flow of electricity - completing the circuit). One benefit of electroplating is that the surface is made of pure silver, not sterling silver. Unfortunately, the silver layer itself is quite thin, so the majority of the part consists of the cheaper core metal. Even though electroplating was much more cost effective than the Sheffield ’sandwich’ process, the Sheffield method continued to be used for the next 100 years, typically for items which were subject to heavy wear (such as military uniform buttons and tankards).
All other types of cutlery, typically referred to as ‘silverware‘ contain no silver at all. Today’s most common varieties are made of stainless steel, typically the 18/8 or 18/10 alloys. The numbers refer to the composition of the steel alloy. The base metal is iron, and it is blended with 18% chromium and 8% (or 10%) nickel. Higher quality stainless steel flatware will be heavier than ‘cheaper’ versions.
Other materials from which cutlery has been made include gold (solid and plated), brass, and pewter, all of which obviously contain no silver.
Bookmark on Delicious * * *
The Parts of a Knife
Before you even begin to select a knife with the perfect grip and balance for your hand, you have to select one that is suitable for the task at hand. A basic knowledge of the various parts of a knife (see image at right) will simplify the process.
The Blade - Materials
The blade of the knife consists of 3 main parts: the Tip, the Spine, and the Cutting Edge.
The most popular material for good quality blades is high-carbon stainless steel. Other materials such as carbon steel, stainless steel , and more recently ceramic , are also available.
Carbon steel was the knife blade of choice for many years. They take an edge better than both stainless steel and high carbon stainless steel. However they tend to lose their edge quickly and require sharpening often. Carbon steel blades will also discolor when exposed to the high acidity found in certain foods such as tomatoes and onions. As a result, carbon steel blades must be washed and thoroughly dried after use (and before storage) to avoid permanent discoloration, rusting, and pitting. The metal is also brittle and can break easily under excessive stress.
Stainless steel is a steel alloy with a higher chromium content than regular steel, which makes it stronger than carbon steel and also highly resistant to discoloration and rust. Due to its increased strength, it is much harder to get a edge on a stainless steel blade. However, once a proper edge is established, it will last longer than the edge on a carbon steel blade.
High carbon stainless steel combines the advantages of both types of steel. Containing a higher percent of carbon than a normal stainless steel alloy, the HCSS is easier to sharpen (like carbon steel) and maintains its edge longer (like stainless steel). Also, being a stainless steel, the blade is highly resistant to discoloration, rust, and pitting.
Ceramic blades are made out of very hard ceramics, usually zirconium oxides. Due to their extreme hardness, ceramic knives will maintain their sharpness up to 10x longer than traditional steel knives. This increased hardness however, also means that the blades are relatively brittle and may shatter or crack if used to pry or cut frozen foods. Most ceramic blades tend to chip when dropped. Sharpening of ceramic blades cannot be performed with the usual ceramic whetstone (or sharpening wheels). A material harder than the blade must be used, which in this case requires diamonds. Ceramic knives are usually sharpened with industrial grade diamond sharpeners (a complimentary sharpening service is usually included with the purchase).
The Blade - Types
The most desirable type of blade is the taper ground. The blade is forged from a single sheet of metal and (as the name implies) has been ground to taper smoothly from the spine to the cutting edge, with no beveling. A beveled blade is not continuously tapered, but rather has a sharper angle ground in to form the cutting edge. A beveled edge is not as sharp as a continuously tapered one. Knives which are to be most frequently used should be made with taper ground blades.
Hollow ground blades are made from 2 sheets of metal, with their edges either beveled or fluted. Hollow ground blades typically have very sharp edges and the ‘hollows’ reduce friction while slicing. Hollow ground knives typically lack the balance and longevity of taper ground blades. These blades are most commonly found on specialty knives used for such things as slicing (bread) or carving (ham, turkey, beef).
The Heel
The heel is the widest part of the cutting edge of the knife (it is not a part of the bolster). It is located at the rear of the blade where it meets the handle. Due to its extra thickness this portion of the cutting edge is used to chop hard items like carrots, nuts or even chicken bones.
Tangs
No not the orange drink the astronauts took to the moon. Though not shown in the image above, the tang is the continuation of the blade which extends into the knife’s handle. Knives which are used for heavy work, such as cleavers and chef’s knives should have full tangs for added strength. A full tang refers to the fact that the tang extends the entire length of the handle.
A partial tang does not run the entire length of the handle, and are therefore not as durable as knives with full tangs. Partial tangs, however, are acceptable for your less frequently used knives. A rat-tail tang is neither full or partial. It is a tang that is much thinner than the spine of the blade and is encased within the handle (not visible on the top and bottom of the handle as a full and half tang is). These knives tend to be less durable, and not appropriate for heavy or extended use.
Bolsters
The bolster is the point where the blade meets the handle (may also be referred to as the collar or shank). All high quality knives will have a bolster. Some knives have a collar that at first glance appears to be a bolster, but it is actually a separate piece of metal that is simply attached to the handle. These types of knives should be avoided as they are not as durable and will tend to come apart.
Handles
Rosewood is the preferred material for knife handles. It is extremely hard and has no grain which makes it less likely to split and/or crack. Some wood handles are impregnated with plastic to protect the handle from damage caused by the continuous exposure to water and soap. Knife handles may also be entirely plastic since they are considered to be more sanitary. However, plastic handles must be thoroughly cleaned to remove grease, which adheres more closely to the plastic than it does to wood.
Regardless of the material, the handle should fit comfortably in your hand. Most knife manufacturers produce handles that fit a variety of hands. A comfortable fit will improve the ease and speed with which you are able to work. Spend some time holding the knife as you would when using it. The handle should not feel slippery or cause you to squeeze excessively hard to hold it. It should rest naturally across your palm and feel like an extension of your hand. A poorly fitting handle can result in fatigue and cramping. Cooks with either very large or very small hands must make sure that they are not straining to hold the handle. Also, some knives are specially manufactured for left handed chefs.
Rivets
Rivets are the metal fasteners that are used to secure the handle to the tang. All rivets should be flush with the surface of the handle and be completely smooth. Otherwise, the rivets may irritate and blister your hand. In addition, any uneven surfaces are potential pockets where bacteria can grow.
Bookmark on Delicious * * *